iwasthirty-seventhen,strappedinmyseatasthehuge747plungedthroughdensecloudcoveronapproachtothehamburgairport.coldnovemberrainsdrenchedtheearthandlenteverythingthegloomyairofaflemishlandscape:thegroundcrewrangear,aflagatopasquatairportbuilding,abmwbillboard.sogermanyagain.